Despite being tired from the midnight flight home from Western Australia, I really wanted to go surfing. Being away from home, one of the biggest things I miss is surfing my local breaks with my good friends. I called my good buddy Jay Abbott for a surf report, only to be disappointed. It had been flat for a few weeks, and nothing had changed. Looking for something to do, we jumped in the Subaru of Doom and drove 30 minutes east to Barwon Heads to see my shaper Cory Russell.
We cut the board talk session short and headed home in hope of sneaking a little surf in before dark. Driving back home we were confronted with a massive cloud front. Sensing an increase in the swell I turned economy mode off, dropped back a gear and sped into the darkness.
It was still pretty much flat. There was the occasional small set wobbling through the lineup and that was enough to get us suited up and out there. Jay and I were joined by Tommy Allan as we unnecessarily paddled around the button on our way to the Winkipop lineup. Our good friend and Peak Wetsuits designer Jai "Homma" Martin beat us to the take off area at uppers.
The waves definitely weren't pumping, but we didn't care. I was relishing being back in familiar waters with some of my best friends. Surfing took a back seat as we used the take off area to discuss more gossip than an issue of Womans Day magazine. We all caught a few fun little runners before darkness closed in and each of us were more than pleased with how we had spent our last hour. You can be anywhere in the world, but nothing truly beats being home.
My next adventure starts this friday, where I head to Sydney for the Werri Beach leg of the Red Bull Junior Surf Masters. From there I am off to Adelaide for the Fantastic Noodles Pro Junior and then over to Bali for the Billabong Pro Junior at Keramas.
Stay tuned updates of my upcoming travels!
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